Day 1 (afternoon) Visit Jewish quarter 'Kazimierz'

This city trip was planned last year when Mieke and I were in Vienna, and met with Kate.

On 1st of March Mieke and I flew to Krakow with Brussels Airlines, where we waited at the airport on Kate's arrival  from Vienna on Polish Airlines.  Mieke had arranged transport to our hotel, beautifully situated next to Jewish quarter.

We checked in, had a soup at the restaurant and started out on our first walk.

Kazimierz – the district south of the Old Town between the Wisla River and ul. (street)Dietla  was the centre of Jewish life in Kraków for over 500 years, before it was systematically destroyed during World War II. In the communist era it became one of Kraków’s dodgiest districts while gradually falling into disrepair. Rediscovered in the 1990s, thanks to the fall of the regime and worldwide exposure through the lens of Steven Spielberg, Kazimierz has rebounded and is today Kraków’s most exciting district – a bustling, bohemian neighbourhood packed with historical sites, atmospheric cafes and art galleries. 

All of Krakow’s seven synagogues are situated in the former Jewish quarter of the town of Kazimierz that developed from a tiny corner that King Jan I Olbracht had earmarked in 1495 for Jews transferred from the historic Krakow (i.e. today’s Old Town) a kilometer or so away. 

Two of the Kazimierz synagogues, Kupa at 27 Miodowa street and Remuh at 40 Szeroka street, still serve Krakow’s miniscule Jewish community as the venues for religious ceremonies. 

Synagogue is ‘synagoga’ or ‘boznica’ in Polish. 

The Remuh synagoge was the first we encountered on our walk, but the synagoge, as well as the cemetery was closed.

Dating from 1553, this is Kraków's smallest but most active synagogue, with Shabbat services once again taking place here each Friday following the recent completion of restoration works. The synagogue was established by the family of famous 16th century Polish rabbi Moses Isserles - better known as 'the Rema,' based on a Hebrew acronym, and is unique for the proximity of the Old Jewish Cemetery adjacent to it. 

We planned to return another day to visit both the synagogue, and the cemetery.

The Stara Boznica is Poland’s oldest synagogue and arguably Krakow’s grandest one. It was built in the early 16th century next to the 14th-century city walls. Destroyed by fire in 1557, the brick building has acquired a Renaissance outer form during the ensuing reconstruction, when the interior is basically Gothic. The Nazis damaged it and turned to a warehouse, they also executed 30 Polish hostages at its wall in 1943. The synagogue has been restored in the years 1955-1957. Since 1961 the Old Synagogue serves as a museum of Jewish history, culture, and tradition. 

The Isaac Synagogue, built in the early Judaic-Baroque style, was opened in 1644, and was a gift to the city from a wealthy Jew, Izaak Jakubowicz. The design is decoratively endowed with arabesques and arches, yet retains a sober linearity, especially within. There is much to admire, not least the fragments of original wall scriptures. Rabbi Eliezer Gurary runs the place with a smile and is usually on hand to provide information to all comers. A shop inside sells kosher food, sweets, Jewish calendars and other items, and around the back you'll find Szalom Falafel - Kraków's only kosher fast food restaurant 

The Tempel Synagogue was founded by Krakow's Reform Jews and has traditionally hosted services for the non-Orthodox Jews of the city. It was built in 1860-62 in the neo-Renaissance style designed by Ignacy Hercok. The building was enlarged in 1868, 1893, and 1924.

During World War II, Tempel Synagogue was badly damaged by the Nazis, who used it as a magazine. Services resumed after the war, and a mikvah was added in 1947.

Regular prayer services were held here until 1985, in Polish and German as well as Hebrew. The synagague was completely renovated in 1995-2000. Today, the Tempel Synagogue remains active as a place of worship, but services are only held a few times each year. The fine building often hosts concerts of Jewish and classical music.

Tempel Synagogue is a 19th-century Reform synagogue was built in an attractive neo-Renaissance style with Moorish interior decorations. Its grandeur best captures the wealth of Jewish life here before the war.

When, weakened by the earthquakes, the vaulting of the nave collapsed for the last time in 1826 the church was threatened with demolition. Yet the Augustinian Order acquired funds for the restoration of the church, which began in the mid-19th century and has continued – although with interruptions – to this day.Despite all of the adversities caused to the church by flood, earthquakes, fire and vandalism, St Catherine’s Church has maintained its noble Gothic character. 

Widely regarded as Krakow's finest Gothic church, St Catherine's also boasts the finest acoustics of any house of worship in the city. Mass is held several times a day, and in summertime especially concerts by Polish and international ensembles can be savoured. 

Skalka, Krakow's Oldest Shrine. 

Here, on a rocky hillock called Skalka, once stood a rotunda church, where king Boleslav II the Bold put to death Krakow bishop Stanislav in 1079. The king was exiled and the late bishop worshiped as a martyr who had exposed excesses of the tyrannical monarch. In 1253 bishop Stanislav was canonized to become the chief patron saint of Poland. Throughout the Middle Ages his cult was pivotal in forming both Polish nation and the country's political culture with its tradition of the accountability of those in power. And Poland’s kings-elects had to come to the Skalka Sanctuary on their coronation to atone for the sins of the predecessors. 

The present splendid Baroque church of the mid 18th century is the fourth on the site. Nevertheless visitors can still see three dark spots of St. Stanislav's blood on the church wall. Since the 1880s some Polish most illustrious luminaries were posthumously awarded with ceremonial burial in its crypt that is open to the public. The church adjoins a 17th-century Pauline monastery modeled on a Renaissance castle.

The pool where his remains were thrown still stands outside the church, elegantly adorned with a sculpture of the saint from the 17th century, and the waters bubbling out the fountain there are said to have healing properties. In 2008, the ‘Three Millennia Altar’ was built in the courtyard of the church; controversial for destroying the once-intimate atmosphere of this religious site (it’s ugly), the outdoor altar features four-metre monuments of St. Stanisław, St. John Paul II,  St. Faustyna, St. Jadwiga, St. Adalbert, St. Jan Kanty, and Abbot Augustyn Kordecki. 

On our way back we glimpse a sight of the Corpus Christi Church, which we decide to visit tomorrow.

Yes, Belgian Fries 

We decided to try a Polish wine & snack at a nice bar on the Szeroka Square "Max 14"


The wine which was not too convincing, rather expensive and exclusively available in restaurants.

After a very nice afternoon and evening, we decided to stay at the hotel for dinner.